Penguins in Antarctica

Penguins, penguins, penguins…

We officially landed on the 7th continent today at Brown Bluff. It was a nesting area of penguins. The water was like glass and it warmed up to almost 5 degrees Celsius. It was an amazing today with thousands of penguins. We were not far away from the largest volcano in the world on James Ross Island. The whole area was layers of volcanic ash and pillow basalts.  Many penguins were happily laying on their nests with eggs that were carefully planned nests made from small stone and rocks. Some male partners were actively adding to the nests while their mates kept the eggs protected.  Overall, the wildlife was very friendly and not afraid of the human visitors.

By the end of the end of the day, the entire bay was being clogged with ice. It is amazing that within a few hours, a given location or landing can be blocked or open. If we stayed too long, we could get locked in by ice unexpectedly. We also saw a few planes fly over from the various research stations in the area. Apparently there is some competition between Chile, Argentina and others on who “controls” Antarctica.

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Icebergs Everywhere

Free cocktails and wine on the Le Boreal has been a highlight. The crew is very friendly and helpful and it is a very addictive luxury to be sailing on a small ship with very few passengers.  Overall, the food has been great, unlimited quantities and very good diversity. No complaints or disappointments so far. The fish dishes are definitely dominant across all meals. Half the passengers eat in the buffet and half sit down and have table service. The food is the same regardless of where you sit.

There is always a table open and nobody ever has to wait to eat when they want.  You can even sit in the snow sometimes!

This afternoon we encountered a 2 mile wide iceberg that was anchored to the bottom. It looked like it was its own island. It is fantastic that the captain of the ship will stop and explore different wildlife and sightings. If a new iceberg with nesting penguins is sighted, the ship slowly circles the find and everyone has time to see and take pictures.

The first iceberg was sighted at 57 degrees latitude which was above the Antarctic convergence zone.  Cold salty waters mixing with fresh water from the icebergs creates an interesting flow and movement.  At one point every season, there is so much nutrients in the water, the algae clouds all the waters around Antarctica.  We will have to see how this pays out… tomorrow we head out in the zodiacs for the first time!

I love having my Surface to take notes and blog the adventure for friends and family. Based on a survey of passengers, the Surface appears to be the best device for connecting to the slow and latent Internet connection.  I just cannot post many pictures this far south below 60 degrees latitude in the southern hemisphere!

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The Map

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Headed South

Speaking of lectures and speakers…we were guided by over a dozen experts with over 300 year of experience. Multiple talks all day long.  Interestingly, our expedition leader is from Roslyn in WA state. As of this posting, we are now south of the Shetland Islands and we are heading as far south as possible on Wednesday depending on the ice conditions. We went through our safety briefing and training for the zodiac tours and landings. We of course needed a detailed briefing of the UN regulations and treaties before departing the ship. No snickers or Twinkies for snacks to share with the penguins for some reason. I guess taking some packets of Gu and Gatorade on shore for a 5K run is not a good idea…the real question is how many layers of clothing should be worn. It is very cold without a doubt, but how many layers is always perplexing most.

Without a doubt, snow pants or rain pants are critics’ for the zodiac rides. A&K provides waterproof and warm winter jackets for everyone, but the one downside is that you look like everyone else. Each expedition is approximately 1.5 hours onshore. Based on the treaty, only 100 people can be onshore at the same time.  They also provide backpacks so your hands are always free to get in and out of the zodiacs. I am not sure how some people are going to be capable in getting in and out of these boats since they cannot even climb stairs on the ship, but…I guess we will see.

This morning, when on the treadmill with the ship’s captain in the small gym, we spotted numerous whales of many different species. The captain is very energetic and commands the gym like the bridge every morning ?  The whale sightings continued all day long. After a little while, you stop looking because you have already seen dozens and you start to expect to see all kinds of wildlife. Did you know a group of penguins is called a “rookery”? They are very curious and friendly compared to the grumpy elephant seals.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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South of the Shetland Islands

Near St George’s Island…lots and lots of whales this morning…humpbacks, fin whales, etc.

The Internet is almost gone, but will keep trying. The South Pole does not like technology for some reason 🙂

Yes, it is cold!!!

 

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Cruising to Antarctica

Ushuaia was a hint to what to expect as we headed south. It was very cool and breezy, but it was nothing compared to what we were about to encounter in the next day. We took a short side excursion to a ski resort to see the countryside and try some of the local lamb which was cooked over a fire. Very yummy and very different taste than lamb in the US, Turkey or New Zealand. Much sweeter. We also got to meet a local pack of slide dogs (Huskies) before we headed to the port and the ship.

Le Boreal stands out compared to the National Geographic and Quark expedition ships.  The other two ships were 20 years or more older than Le Boreal and looked like they were in rough shape.  I think we made a great choice.  Boarding was very fast and very personal. It was a completely new experience to board a ship with only 200 passengers. The Le Boreal is very modern, clean and easy to feel like it is home. It only takes 3 minutes to go anywhere in the ship.

The services and facilities were limited, but the service from the crew was above and beyond. It was a delight to not have waiters and bar personnel asking you to purchase drinks or beverages every 10 minutes. Everything is included.  Flowing wine at dinner and open bar in the evening with the piano playing in the observation lounge.

 

We were quickly in the ozone hole in the atmosphere above the Antarctic region and sunscreen is paramount in the cold weather compared to being in Hawaii or Tahiti. Before you know it, layers of clothing, hats and gloves are something you want to have handy so you can run outside and observe the latest sighting. We were fortunate that the initial weather crossing Drake passage was quite calm with mild swells.

 

Shortly after breakfast on the first day, we encountering our first iceberg that was further north than normally ever seen. Quite a sight that even surprised the captain and the guides. The sea birds were swarming around the light blue waters from the melting ice. A small pair of whales was seen shortly after the iceberg, but they did not breach the surface. Time for some warm bouillon after being outside in the cold wind and attend a lecture from Bob Burton on the history of the early expeditions to Antarctica.

After 3 days, we arrived in the southern most continent on Earth.

and what did we find?  Of course we found some penguins!

and we also found some great wine to enjoy!  A Portteus old vine Cabernet!  Even the penguins like great Washington State wines this far south!

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Leaving South America

Onboard the French ship Le Boreal and leaving for the 7th continent with a glass of Champagne in hand. Our French is a little rusty…good opportunity to practice while on sabbatical 🙂

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Arrived in Ushuaia on Way to Antarctica

A quick introduction to UshuaiaIt is the most southern city on the planet earth and the closest point to the Antarctica continent.  We took a charter down down here from Santiago Chile that I posted about yesterday in this blog post.

A 40 degree temperature drop compared to Santiago…but a refreshing breeze over the Andes before we board the ship in a few hours. Antarctica here we come!

The town is really a resort, skiing, hiking and Antarctica expedition town.

Very friendly and quiet scenic in December.

We went up into the mountains for the afternoon and you can see why many people love to come hiking here in the winter and come skiing in the summer.

We visited a sled dog farm which is just as popular as Alaska, and…

had some of the best lamb in the world.  The lab is cooked over an open fire and many around the world rave about it.

and before the ship Le Boreal for our cruise, we strolled around the town which was very friendly, artistic and very nice for tourists.  If you forgot some gear for your expedition, you can still get many things in town for a decent price.

Want to follow along? Check out the next post when arrived at Palmer Station!

Or if you would like to learn more about the Tierra del Fuego area, check out my blog post when we arrived back to Ushuaia from the ship a few weeks later.

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A tour around Santiago Chile

We just arrived in Chile and started a tour.  It is a Catholic holiday today in Chile. We toured around the city today and sampled the local wine and snacks.

A view from the hills above the city

The Presidential Palace

I definitely love having my Surface to travel with!

Here are some of the other days we spent exploring Santiago and Chile:

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A few pics from Chile

Nothing fancy, but the weather is gorgeous and relaxing for December. Ran around the local downtown park with Running Chile running club this morning 🙂

 

Will be posting pics periodically on Skydrive: http://sdrv.ms/XlHYJa 

 

 

 

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