Taj Mahal in Agra India

This morning we woke up early to visit the famous Taj Mahal.

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The long lines form quickly and at 6:30 AM, the people are lined up like cattle to go through security checks and pat downs to get into the complex.

I speculated a lot on whether this was a place that was over rated and over marketed.  Is it really that amazing?

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It was a bit foggy this morning, but the sight was breath taking once you see it in person.  It looks fake with this camera angle doesn’t it?

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Did you know this is a tomb for the former Moghul Emperor’s wife who died young?

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It is breathtaking and the size is enormous.  It is hard to believe until you visit yourself.

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Even the nearby adjoining mosque is amazing in architecture and size.  The morning sun made everything seam magical.  It was quite a morning.

Later in the afternoon, we visited the “Red Fort” or the Agra Fort.  This was the military Moghul fort not far from the Taj Mahal across the river.

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It was massive in size and still in use today by the Indian military.

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It was also the place where the Moghul Emperor that built the Taj Mahal was held for 8 years in prison by his son who overtook his empire.

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He did not live a shabby life in these settings…

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He could even see the Taj Mahal from his windows if you look very close through the fog.

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Travelling from Jaipur to Agra

Today, we made the long trek east towards Agra.  It was mostly an uneventful day across the small villages and countryside.  As always, in India, there is lots of interesting things to see along the way…

 And numerous temples ever few kilometers…

The big business for many is how they dry the manure from the cows and buffalo into round patties that can be used for fuel for fires and stoves.

We stopped for lunch at a re-furbished Laxmis Villas (palace) near Bharatpur for a nice local lunch.

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Have to enjoy the smell of freshly picked flowers before lunch.  And, finally – I found some Indian rice pudding for desert!

We then toured the famous Akbar fort which was the residence and royal palace for the third Moghul Emperor.  This was found in the city of Sikri.

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I have to admit that the size of the grounds and different summer and winter living spaces were one of the largest ancient (castles) I have ever seen.  It is of the scale of most equivalent Roman structures I have visited or seen over time.

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The one interesting tidbit I learned today: this is where the game Parcheesi was invented.  Many people still play it here.  Back in the 1500s, it was played with women dressed in different colored saris instead of small board pieces.

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It is hard to see, but if you look close, you can see the squares.

The city of Agra is packed with one road as the main thoroughfare into the city.  We have a good hotel with an interesting view to share…

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More on this tomorrow 🙂  See the next blog post!

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Jaipur (Continued)

We started the day early with a morning run in the countryside and then we spent most of the day exploring more of the area around Jaipur like the Amber Fort, City Center, the Royal Palace and some of the local area.  We did not get to visit the army fort, but the walls and emplacements were stunning to see around the entire area. It made me think this is the equivalent of the Great Wall in India.  It is a huge complex.

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We started with the Jantar Mantar historical site.  It is essentially an outdoor observatory that was built in the 18th century by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh.

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The (park) is filled with sundials which are enormously accurate and critical tools for determine the horoscope and future of newborn children.

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Then we walked over to the nearby City Palace which is in the old part of Jaipur.  The city is full of detailed architecture, carvings, gates and a some museums to commemorate the historical (and I think) royal family members in India.

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Outside the city , we ran into our first snake charmer.  We could not resist to stop and watch with the dozens of children who were also intrigued.

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In the afternoon, we headed over to the famous Amber Fort up on top of the nearby mountains.  This is where we also had a very nice lunch in a restaurant recently opened in the old (castle).  This fort used to be the former capital of the state before it was later moved.  It is really well kept and full of unique Hindu and Muslim architecture.

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…and yes, we got lured into a carpet and tapestry shop…we did not spend much time here in this tourist trap.

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Jaipur India

Today, we left New Delhi and headed to the “Pink City” of Jaipur.  It is called “pink” as many buildings are painted pink to welcome the Prince of Wales back in the 1800s.  It still remains…

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It was a very long, slow ride of 5 hours southwest of New Delhi through the Rajasthan province (state).  It felt like you never left the city…there was always a village, a store, a place of work…a tent community along the way.  It was amazing to see all the massive amounts of construction outside of the city and the continuous infrastructure and highway development that never ends.

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At the same time, you can be passing by another vehicle on the right, while there is a man with a camel on the left pulling a cart on the same road.

After a day of driving, we checked into the new Fairmont Hotel in Jaipur.  Gorgeous.  Great location and great local food.

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The funny thing was the local band playing for Sunday brunch…mainly tunes from the Police, John Denver and other 80s pop bands.  Funny.

Random thought: I found it difficult sometimes if you want to buy something small or give a small tip, rarely do you have the small currency denomination handy.  If you get cash from an ATM, the notes are in 500 or 1000 Rupee notes, but these are almost useless if you want to use a restroom for 5 rupees or buy a water for 8 rupees.  They shop owners don’t have the change…

Since most of our day was spent travelling, we spent the afternoon with a local elephant polo team.  Yes, elephant polo.  They gathered the elephants from southern India and have a large family ranch in the north.

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We took a long ride into the mountains in the area and got to see a lot of local wildlife including many peacocks in the trees and lots of local goat ranchers.

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The elephants are definitely characters.

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Next random thought: Interestingly, sometimes you will see “tenderloin” on the menu of a restaurant.  This is not beef steak, it is water buffalo.  You just don’t eat cows in India, but for some reason, it is OK to export beef from India. Don’t understand that one…

We were lucky to get some local wine tonight.  We stopped by the local liquor store and snatched the last two bottles of the Sula Cabernet.  One minute later another tourist walked up and was also looking for wine…NO WINE he yelled. We got lucky tonight 🙂

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Attending the India Republic Day Parade

We spent the morning celebrating Republic Day in central Delhi. It was a lavish and amazing parade of military, provincial floats and countless bands.

 

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It was a great experience…except cameras and cell phones were forbidden.  I had to get some shots off the Internet to show what it was like:

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They even showed off their latest version (Agni V) of their medium range ballistic missile (nuclear) which caught the attention of many in the press.  The security for getting a seat in the parade was extreme.  I was patted down 3 separate times and they even took away my lip balm.  I was forced to go into a separate line “because I have a beard” and that made me suspicious….

Later, in the afternoon, we went to visit Ghandi’s memorial by taking off our shoes and entering the park.

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We then went to visit the largest mosque in India.  The Jama Masjid is near old Delhi and also overlooks the Red Fort.

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We old took a few outside pictures as they wanted a large sum to take a camera inside.  The Jama Masjid is near old Delhi and also overlooks the Red Fort.

Being a westerner, we were a huge attraction to many people who have never seen or met a Caucasian. They gathered in large numbers whenever we stopped and just wanted to look (stare).  The mosque is a very popular destination for tourists and locals…we just have a more spacious bus than the locals.

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Last, we went to check out Humayun’s tomb which is a huge garden and complex that became an inspirational design for the later Taj Mahal.  This is a great example of the Mughal empire’s influence of India’s history and architecture.

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….before we headed back to the hotel, we spent a little more time in Old Delhi by taking a rickshaw through the area…it is amazing the sights you see every 30 seconds.  The shock and awe never ends…

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(Great way to spend a national holiday in India)

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New and Old Delhi India

We explored around Delhi a little more today.  It is definitely easy to get around by walking, but you have to fend off the tuk-tuk drivers every 60 seconds.  They cost almost nothing, but unless you are inside one…they won’t let you get away.  Even if you are talking to a local resident, there is extreme yelling between the drivers and the local residents who disagree with the aggressive drivers who are looking to make a few rupees.

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Tomorrow is the Republic day (aka Independence Day) so we walked down to the India Gate and Presidential Palace area which are about 1 mile from our hotel…could not help noticing the Ferrari dealership along the way…and some local monkeys waiting outside to take a test drive…

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Unfortunately, most of the area is completely closed off due to Republic Day.  There are barriers and soldiers everywhere.  There were more soldiers in almost every area of New Delhi than I have seen in a week (combined) in other Middle Eastern counties.  There is a lot of fear and tension over terrorism on Republic Day.

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We did find a way to sneak down to the Presidential Palace and Defense Ministry as they worked on setting up lights and decorations for tomorrow.  Some gorgeous architecture and structures in this area.

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Next, we visited and entered a local Sikh temple.  Everyone (even outsiders) are welcomed to enter and visit.  You must remove shoes (and socks) and wash your hands before entering the room where many are praying and chanting along with the entrancing music.

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It was adorned with an amazing gold alter and atmosphere inside the temple.  Not a place many people in a group tour would visit, by my guess.  Was a very magical experience.

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We then ventured off a little into Old Delhi.

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This is primarily a Muslim community with very narrow streets and local shops where many live and work.  This was a night and day difference between Old Delhi and New Delhi.

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Chicken for dinner anyone?  The number of soldiers in full combat gear were omnipresent in Old Delhi.

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We never felt endangered or at risk here…it just very different and you must have an open mind.  It did feel like we were in a James Bond movie or something as we raced through the twists and turns of the shops and people.

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Flying to India over Afghanistan and Pakistan

We arrived in India today for the first time today…

Last night, we flew over Afghanistan and Pakistan for the first time, but we unfortunately could not stop as we did not have visas for these destinations…

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But, I will have to say: after travelling around the world, India is a completely different place.  There is definitely some pollution similar to Los Angeles, but not as bad as Beijing.  No bad coughs yet!

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The real difference is the culture.  I was shocked to receive a 5 lb garland of flowers from our host.  These blow away Hawaiian Leis.  They smelled unbelievable.

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The people are friendly and go out of your way to be helpful.  If you are lost on the street, someone will guide you.

Getting into a tuk-tuk to go shopping for bottled water, local wine, to get around the city was a different experience than anywhere else in the world.  Less than $1 to go anywhere.  Another $1 and they will wait hours for you.

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The traffic is crazy…scary…a different sight every 3 seconds…it was like Cairo, Egypt compounded.

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How did all these look alike dogs end up in one spot?

This is going to be an interesting 2 weeks to say the least…I am already blown away and I have not been here 24 hours yet.

Update: we found our first wine from India at dinner 🙂

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Here are some of the sites and places we visited in Northern India:

And here is the latest posting for my recent visit to Southern India.

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Snow in Zurich airport

Wow – after a lot of time in the sun, the cold and snow was a shock. Landed in Zürich…fortunately our flight is not cancelled like many others.

Big disappointment: only 60 minutes free Internet in the airport lounge 😦

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Farewell – Flying East

We have certainly had a great week in the sun, relaxation, connection with friends and a little adventure/exploration.  I am thinking maybe we should buy some property in Caesarea.  This home is not quite finished, but it has great views of the ocean, 10,000 square feet, 3 pools…it just needs a little “fit and finish”.  I bet the bank will offer a good deal on it…

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Today, was the national elections in Israel.  We stopped by the home of Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu to try and talk with him, but he was busy I guess.

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Instead, I took a long run along the beach and aqueduct and enjoyed the nice weather since only the soldiers were at his house apparently on elections day 😉

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Farewell Israel, it was a great visit!  (We are now off to a new culture and experience further east…stay tuned)

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The West Bank: Jericho and Bethlehem in Palestine

We decided to take a little more risk (not enormous) and visit some areas in the West Bank that we had never traversed to while living in Israel. Travelling to or through the West Bank can be tricky or cumbersome…it is all how you plan your route and destination.

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Without a doubt, it is a gorgeous drive with some amazing scenery:

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Many Israelis are forbidden for entering certain areas or cities and based on the specific route, they are checkpoints, barriers or simple signs with appropriate warnings.

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We initially drove down through Sumerian valley and visit the Jordan River which is quite famous in the bible and historical texts.

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The Greek Orthodox Church was conducting numerous ceremonies when we visited and they were quite challenged from the very high river due to all the rain in the previous week.  Both the Israeli side and Jordanian side were very active simultaneously.

Getting there was quite easy…you just have to enter through a former military outpost and base, but it is now maintained by the National Park Authorities.

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and more importantly make sure you avoid going off the road or trail due to mines…

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From there we headed into Jericho.  We had to avoid the Palestinian checkpoint on one side as it is very strict based on the nearby border crossing with Jordan at the Allenby bridge (also known as the King Hussein Bridge).  We used a little less conspicuous and more accessible road does not require passport control.

However, on the way, we did 4×4 into the hills a little to get a view of the Nebi Musa mosque which (controversially) is the burial site for Moses in the Muslim faith.  It is also the location of the burial site of Mohammed’s third wife.

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Jericho: we found Jericho to be a very friendly place with very friendly people.

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It is mainly a very flat and sprawling agricultural community since it is no longer a thriving casino location that Israelis can visit anymore since the intifada.

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The reason I wanted to visit is the fact it may be the oldest city in the world.  Some of the artifacts date back to almost 11,000 years ago!

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You can also ride a cable car up to the Mount of Temptation and visit Greek monastery near the summit.

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It is not a great picture, but we drove by the famous Sycamore tree in Jericho – you cannot get close unless you meet a religious criteria….but I found the local sycamore nuts quite tasty as a snack.  Never them before, they go great with wine 🙂

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After leaving Jericho, we did a little hiking to get a great view of the St. George’s monastery in the Wadi Kelt canyon.

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This was an amazing view and definitely a place I wish we had more time to go hike down and visit the location.  The pictures really don’t provide the true beauty and scenery here.  If we come back, I would absolutely make a day hike here.

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It was a long day, but since we were close and in the area, we decided to also try to visit Bethlehem – another city controlled by the Palestinian authority. Entering Bethlehem is a little trickier as the restrictions and tensions are definitely much higher than other areas like Jericho.  The barriers and wall around the villages/cities compromising this area tell the story.

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Despite being late in January, it was still a festive and colorful atmosphere in Bethlehem and the large Christian community in the three villages.  There is no doubt and no hiding of the fact there is significant tension between the Christian and Muslim residents.

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The obvious source and attraction for visiting Bethlehem is the Church of the Nativity where I found it interesting that is maintained and shared by three separate Christian faiths simultaneously: Catholic, Armenian and Greek Orthodox.

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They work together (peacefully most of the time) to highlight and share this historical landmark where Jesus was born and lay in a manger.

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There is lot of history and story in the church that winds through all the caves and sections of the church…more than I could go into here. It felt like we were visiting Rome as we went into the lower levels of the complex and explored the tombs and niches.

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In the end, it was a very different view of Israel and some of the people that we never met before that we will always remember after this expedition through the West Bank.

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If you would like see another visit I made to the West Bank, check out my visit to Hebron.

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