The Divided Peninsula (Korea)

Unlike Vietnam, South Korea and North Korea are not united and that fact is still very overt and disappointing when talking to local people. The (SOUTH) Korean is clearly very strong and it was obvious when visiting Seoul. There was always enormous activity, action and energy everywhere you went. The traffic was brutal though, 20% of the entire country lives in Seoul (10 million people). We only had two days left in my vacation balance, so we prioritized our time to head north and visit the DMZ.

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It was amazing (and scary) that the border and cease fire line (the 38th parallel) is only about 1 hour north of the capital.

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Almost the entire time you ride/drive along the river, there is double layers of razor wire and armed guards in observation posts every 50-100 meters.

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We first checked out the “third tunnel” which was found in 1978 as a potential invasion tunnel built by the north. Unfortunately, we could not take pictures, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Third_Tunnel_of_Aggression) but we hiked down 75 meters to crouch the 250 meters to reach the very edge of the border between North and South Korea. What an amazing experience and quite a workout!

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It is amazing that everywhere you go in this area, is marked and truly covered with active landmines to deter any potential invasions from the north.

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Next, we went to the observation post to view the scenic panorama between the two countries.  You can see the flag of the North.

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And then shorter flag pole of the South.

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And if you look carefully, and ignore all the sparrows, you can see both flags on the left and ride. These are close to the location where the sides infrequently meet with diplomatic purposes (known as JSA).

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Next, we stopped at official train station that is used to occasionally allow people and goods to go back and forth between the two countries.

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This is built near/using the “Freedom Bridge”

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This is where prisoners of war returned and walked home from the north when the cease fire was approved by the two sides.

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The day was a little rainy, but it made us feel like home. We stopped in for lunch in Insadong and checked out the art district of Seoul.

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It was a pleasant and fun way to send a day in Seoul.

 

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The VietCong Tunnels of Cu Chi

I must admit, the private tour of Cu Chi, which was one of the largest and most complex VietCong strongholds near Saigon was the best explanation and understanding of the battles between the US military (and the ARVN) against the guerilla militants.

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It was amazing to see how close and how large the tunnel complexes were…and all the challenges that the forces faced in attacking each other.

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The historical site is officially run by the government.

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You have to watch their propaganda firm first.

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And they had detailed mockups of all the booby-traps, IEDs and other (killing) methods they used in the jungles.

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You could see remaining 500lb bomb craters from the US bombing of the area.  There were a lot of them.  Apparently over the past 40 years the jungle has grown back, but this whole area was devoid of any vegetation from the napalm and Agent Orange.

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They also had many examples of all the activities they performed in the tunnels

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Yes, you can go into the tunnels. You can go up to 100 meters.

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Yes, it is dark, and boiling hot (40 degrees).

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And if you are claustrophobic, it would be brutal.

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I was lucky to survive…and these tunnels were widened so westerners could crawl through them.  It was quite an experience. I know understand what the tunnel rats had to face.

My guide’s father was in the ARVN during the war and he was required to spend 3 years in a “re-education camp” before he was allowed to return home (after the fall of the government in 1975).

 

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Exploring Saigon

Today, we got off the river and headed to Saigon. I can say that there is a night and day difference between the north (Hanoi) and the south (Saigon). Saigon has far less pollution, crumbling infrastructure, and is clearly much more modern and easy going than cities in the north. I hate to say it, but Saigon was a delight to enter this morning.  Lots to say in this post as there is so many things to do…

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We first visited the former Presidential Palace…lots of history here.

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It is now called the Independence Palace or Museum. This is where the (previous) government rules, lived and held meetings before it fell in 1975.

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Here are the first tanks that the VietCong/Communists used to shut down and overturn the government.

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By crashing through the gates (since they were not skilled and knew what to do when they were fighting in the city and not in the jungles)

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This is the famous plane that was stolen (from the US) and dropped two bombs on the palace in 1974 that marked the end of the South Vietnam government.

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We also stopped by and checked out the famous post office that is still in use today. Lots original artwork and décor from a long time ago…a large painting of Uncle Ho Chi Minh hung over everyone.

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I have to say that you see A LOT of propaganda art, messages and statues in Saigon than you do in the north.

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And, right before lunch, we took a few pictures of the oldest Chinese pagoda in Saigon. It was pretty impressive with its woodwork as the temple is supposedly over 200 years old.

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A nice, (free) historical artifact worth visiting if in the area.

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In the afternoon, we visited the War Remnants Museum in Saigon.

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In some ways, it is a lot about propaganda…

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But it truly told the story and the sad history of the Vietnam War.

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It is mostly a photo museum of the history of the war and the soldier’s activities on both sides as captured by journalists.

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There was some nice exhibits of all the weapons used in the war and some of the captured US aircraft.

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As you can tell above, Agent Orange was the primary topic. Out of respect, I did not take nor will I show the pictures of the war. Many were too horrible or graphic to even describe. War is horrible and there is two sides to every story. The Vietnam War was something I hope we never see again.

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In closing for today, here is a stern warning from our hotel: don’t you dare bring in any of the DURIAN fruit…it smells like French cheese and offends some people. $200 fine for local fruit in the room!

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The Markets of South Vietnam

It was certainly interesting to check out the local markets here. They sell everything and this is the daily life for most people in the area. The fisherman and farmers catch the fish and harvest the fruits and vegetables and then they bring them to their 1-meter plots on the street to sell their goods.

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Most families shop every morning for their daily menus. This one was in Sa Dec.

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We also saw a floating market…a real one.

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What the family is selling is hung above the boat using a single bamboo pole.

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We were tempted to stop and try out the local fast food place in Vietnam…it is called Banh Mi which the Vietnamese word fro bread.. You can get a sandwich in 30 seconds for the equivalent of 30 cents. But our tummies would probably have not liked us…

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Now, one interesting/strange/different place we checked out was the temple in Sa Dec that was very similar to the Bihai faith where all gods are treated equally and worshiped together.

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I think the official name is the Cao Dai temple.

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Apparently, this is the third most popular or common religious practice in Vietnam.  It was very different…I will leave it at that.

In this fishing (city/town), 20% of the population is Catholic.

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We stopped by the church as a children’s mass was just finishing.  All the kids were dressed in bright white dresses and boys with red bow ties.

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Last, we did a quick visit to the famous house of the French writer Marguerite Duras. Great place to have a cup of (real) Lotus tea. A popular bed and breakfast stop for only $45 a night.

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And most importantly, they officially have the G55 Mercedes AMG in Vietnam! 🙂

If you liked this post, why not check out this trip blog from the start when it began with my Hanoi posting?

 

 

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Waterfront Industries in Vietnam

As we headed down south along the Mekong River, we stopped a few places to see how people live and work in the river communities in Vietnam.

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We first stopped at Tan Chau.  They had to build up the banks because the Mekong is washing away many towns in Vietnam.

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It certainly is challenging for many as the river floods ever year during the rainy season…and many homes become essentially fish traps until the dry season comes back around.

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It was interesting to ride a rickshaw around the town and see everyone putting their rice out in front in the morning to dry out…

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I am not sure about the cooked rice on the street though…

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And we stopped at checked out a silk factory. It was fascinating to see these 100 year old machines (looms) running away to produce silk fabric in bulk sheets.

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We also stopped and saw how another family worked on weaving straw mats. It was mind numbing to see how tedious this work was and how many in the community desired this work to just have some income.

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We also visited an “island” community in the middle of the Mekong Delta.  This is one example of a traditional “home”.

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Many in the community raised, chickens, ducks, cows and even snails and eels.  No thanks on the latter.

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The people are definitely very poor and the average worker only makes $150 a month. We brought one family a soccer ball for our gratitude for enabling us to visit them. We were told than less than 40% of the children in these villages will ever graduate high school. Many families just do not see the value of education.

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A Small Tour around Phnom Pehn

Phnom Pehn is not a bad city. For a few dollars, you can grab a Tuk Tuk and get to most places. Of course, along the river is a great place to run in the morning.

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You need to get out around 5:00 AM to avoid the heat.  Since by 8:00 in the morning, it will be 90 degrees out.

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And it gets pretty crowded. Between 5 AM and 8 AM, thousands of people will line the boardwalk and dance, play badminton, a version of “hacky sack” and also the favorite Zumba collections.

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Here they were dancing right in front of the presidential palace. (sorry for the bad pic while running)

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For a better picture, we went and checked out the Presidential Palace.

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It was definitely popular. Unfortunately, you cannot go in or even take any pictures of the inside.

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It was kind of cool to know that the royalty was on the premised while we were visiting (you can tell by the blue flag that was flying).

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Lots of interesting sites and people to observe in the capital city.

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The grounds and buildings are definitely worth checking out if you visit Phnom Pehn. The huge stupas were pretty impressive with all their intricate carvings and detail.

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We also made a quick stop at the National Museum. Unfortunately, they don’t really let you take pictures outside of the garden and entrance.

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But if you want to see some of the best statues and remains from the various temples around Cambodia, the national museum in Phnom Pehn is the place to tour.

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The Cambodia Killing Fields

It is hard to explain without referring people to a book or a documentary, but the genocide that occurred in Cambodia in 1975-1979 was a horrible tragedy to the people of Cambodia and the world. It is still shocking to hear that (most) of the people and leaders that led the Khmer Rouge have not been convicted, imprisoned or held responsible for the horrors they led to bring their government to power.

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We first visited the mass graves outside of Phnom Pehn.

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It is about 40 minutes outside the main city, and this is where thousands of people were found in mass graves. There is still bones, teeth and debris still being found every day from the rain and floods.

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The horrors and stories are hard to even describe to tell.

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It is effectively a Cambodian Holocaust that is hard to believe occurred in the past 20 years.

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Many visitors purchase flowers to pay homage to those who perished at the commemorative temple. It was the least we could do.

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We also visited the S21 prison.

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This is another location that was a true story of those that were being persecuted by the Khmer Rouge.

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We were fortunate to have had the opportunity to meet the two living survivors from the prison that are still alive today.

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What an amazing experience.

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I wish we could say more or provide more pictures to tell the story, but it is impossible to share the emotions or the horrors on a simple blog. Most of the pictures are just not possible to share with most people on a public web site.

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On a positive side, we visited the Central Market to buy some gold watches for 10$ to help the local economy 🙂

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Life Along the Mekong River

Before we headed down the Mekong River on a passenger riverboat, we got to explore around the Kampong Cham area a little more and then later on down the river.

The old hard thing is it takes so long to get any pictures when you are in the middle of the jungle and far away from a major town.

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The opportunity to visit a small village or school is definitely a rewarding experience.

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Seeing how people live, visiting their small stores or giving the kids a soccer ball from Siem Riep is a lifelong memory.  Don’t give the kids pencils and pens, get them a soccer ball which will brings days of delight and smiles that go a long way in everyone’s life!

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We are so fortunate the way we live in the United States, and the people in Cambodia were so warm, friendly and welcoming to meet with outsiders that might visit their store, school or give a small gift to their kids.

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It is hard to describe with pictures or explain until you visit yourself.  There are definitely some amazing (small) Buddhist temples in the countryside where you can meet 80+ year old monks that can tell your fortune and provide advice on life.

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You have to watch out for the monkeys, they are much more aggressive than the passive nature of the monks. They are cute and love to torment the local dogs.

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The monks will also give you a blessing and prayer.

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It was a delight to get a blessed amulet from the monks.

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If interested in seeing some of my other postings and days in…

Cambodia

Vietnam

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Rural Cambodia

Unless you are in a larger town, there is often no electricity or sanitation and the bulk of the rural population relies on farming (rice) for survival. They primary eat fish (25%) and rice (75%) to survive. It actually takes 6-9 months to grow the primary rice the families like to eat and it is very laborious to grow and harvest. The average family member needs 300 pounds of rice a year to survive. In addition, most people in the villages don’t understand or trust banks…so that is why the raise and maintain cattle. Cows are their primary source of income, savings and source of labor when farming…hence why they often have so many.

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We did have the opportunity to visit an English language school outside of Siem Riep. It was established and run by a local philanthropic organization to help young children learn English as a potential skill to help them grow long term in this poor economy that is dominated and dependent on tourism.

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It was a real treat to meet them and hear them sing some English songs. It was a real treat.

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We also had a chance to chat with them and although they are very shy, they open up nicely when you talk to them 1-1. We brought them some school supplies to help their effort…as things like pens, pencils, paper and even books are so expensive, most children and schools cannot afford them.

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Here is something different. The most common sport we observed in Cambodia? Soccer is certainly of interest, but do you know what we observed the most people playing? Volleyball!  I only wish I had some time to join a game and meet the future Olympic player from Cambodia  🙂

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When travelling down to the Mekong River to catch a boat, we had the opportunity to see a large part of the rural areas.

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We stopped a small fishing village for a rest stop…as toilets are not common in the rural areas of Cambodia.  They have strict rules when they do have public ones though…

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We even had a chance to visit and cross the oldest bridge in Cambodia.

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It was almost like it was built by the Romans … but it was constructed with lava rock from the ancient volcanos that existed in the region a long time ago.

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Temples around Siem Riep

There are lots of things to do in Siem Riep outside of running along the river or going to Angkor Wat. There is decent/fun shopping, very friendly people, nice museums and easy transportation via Tuk Tuks. You can get almost anywhere in town for just $2-3. You can also easily walk around all the traffic…it is just like Vietnam…you just casually walk across (not run) the street and everyone will weave around you. Try it, it works!

Siem Riep Temples

Apparently, there is ~ 290 temples in the area. We checked a few of them out. It is nice how you can get a 3 day pass for all these sites for $40. It is kind of like Disneyland.

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We first checked out Bantey Srei which is a 10th century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, the god of destruction. It was a small site, 40 miles outside of town, but was a nice miniaturized version of the larger temples without 1000s of tourists.

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You do have to watch out for the kids…they will attack you will postcards or want to play mud ball war when you are not looking!

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After walking through the Angkor Thom gate with all the gods and demons, we checked out The Bayon.

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If you are nimble, you can crawl around this temple and have some fun while most of the other tourists ride elephants around the moat and the monks hang out in the giant Buddha shrines around the city.

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We also, of course, checked out Ta Phrom to pretend we in the latest Tomb Raider movie with Angelina Jolie.

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This location is great because it is in the cool jungle unlike the big temples in the blazing sun.  It is a little dangerous as the jungle is fighting an extended war with the temple and it is crumbling in many place.  I like the adventure myself…

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The 200 year old gum and strangler figs trees overrunning the temple were simply amazing.

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Recognize the scene from the movie? 🙂

 

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